Thakoon's Surreal Fantasy

How to describe Thakoon Panichgul's jaw-droppingly gorgeous fall collection? Think ladylike with hints of rock and roll, the '80s, cheeky prints, and sheer boudoir chic, all perfectly enhanced by strong beauty looks from makeup artist Diane Kendal and hairstylist Eugene Souleiman. We'll explain.

The Look: Kendal created dewy, luminous skin by smoothing Nars Sheer Glow foundation all over the models' faces, and swept powder blush in Gilda (a warm coral) on the apples of their cheeks “for a fresh, healthy glow.” Then things got serious: After moistening the lids with foundation, she rimmed eyes with a brown pencil, used an eye shadow brush to blend the liner in a sheer wash along the lids and up into the brow, and slightly smudged a bit beneath the eyes. Next she traced Nars Stilo Liquid Eyeliner Pen (launches this fall!), closely along the top and bottom lashlines, and finished the look with powder on the brows to enhance their fullness. She skipped mascara to keep the eyes looking fresh, and kept lips neutral with a dab of concealer topped off with Rosebud Salve.

“It’s all about contrast," said Souleiman regarding the hair, which was inspired by early 20th-century surrealist photographer Lee Miller. "The front is very tight, shiny, and graphic, and the back is soft and a little loose. It’s the idea of a very strong woman.” First he made a deep side part and spritzed the front section of hair with a ton—and we do mean a ton—of hairspray. He then smoothed it down over the forehead and around to the back of the head, tucking it behind the ear to form a fluid, scooping shape. For the grand finale, he gatherd the rest of the hair back into a teased ponytail and wrapped it into an off-center, messy twist that he pinned low on the back of the head. To emphasize the dry texture of the twist, he rubbed his palm back and forth over it to give it a static-y finish. Very business in the front, party in the back.

The Scene: Crazy. Like Jason Wu, Thakoon made headlines thanks to Michelle Obama, who sported his floral dress at the DNC last year. Naturally, he was Mr. Popularity this season and it showed backstage.

Lesson Learned: Mascara isn't always a must.

Allure.com