Everybody Line Up

Beauty Junkie is perenially searching for mascara with a little something more. Coming soon to an Ulta store near you: Bourjois Liner Effect. It lengthens, it intensifies…but it comes in a cool shade of cerulean, along with the usual black and brown hues. Why so blue? To make the whites in your eyes look extra bright, of course.

Beauty Dictionary: A to Z for Fall 2008 - "D"

D: De-Vined
Chloe, circa Fall 2008
Chloe, Dolce & Gabbana and Marc Jacobs made sure their models were pouting the hottest lips of the season at their F/W shows. “This trend was all about the sumptuous berry-bitten lip – think berry, cherry and plum stains,” says Vimi. To get the same look, she recommends M.A.C Pro Longwear Lipcolor in Stuck On You.“A heavy Bordeaux-rich lip makes a decadent statement this fall – it’s luxurious without being overtly glamorous.” Opt for a matte finish lipstick for a perfectly full pout or dab with a gloss for a ‘stained’ finish.

Magic Powder Ball

Chic Report hardly likes to admit it but even we are flawed. The late nights are sadly starting to show thanks to all the recent revels (think Whitney, Chanel, etc.). Enter BeneFit’s Powderflage with its own special brush that spreads light-diffusing pink particles over all those pesky fine lines and dark circles. Thank goodness for little miracles. THE DETAILS: $28, www.benefitcosmetics.com

Fall 2008 Fashion Trends for Women

Not only does the Fall season invoke warm feelings of watching the seasons change and gearing up for cooler temperatures, fashionistas out there are gearing up for the latest information on what’s hot, what’s new and what clothing items they must have in their wardrobes. Lucky for you, you can get the scoop right here.

Ah, the sweater. It seems like such a simple piece of clothing - it’s usually big and somewhat bulky and the purpose is to keep your warm and stave off the cold. Well, throw in a little design, style and flair and you’ve got a fashionable piece of clothing that can make quite the statement. The next time you get set to do a little shopping to update your Fall wardrobe, be sure to look into the latest generation of sexy sweaters that are anything but bulky. The latest trendy sweaters will include everything from form-fitting styles as well as oversized (but not in a way that would make you embarrassed to be seen in public). Turtlenecks will continue to remain popular, especially the kind that sport floppy turtleneck styles. Knitted sweaters with chunky and nubby designs as well as short-sleeved styles are definitely items you’ll want to snag for yourself. Layering also comes into play with trendy sweaters for the Fall season, as do belts both wide and narrow. You’ll have a virtual field day with the various outfits you’ll be able to mix and match with such trendy sweaters.

Not only have sweaters made a comeback, so has the tailored jacket. This article of clothing is one that will make or break your Fall style. Be sure to invest some time and money into seeking out just the right fit, color, style and design. Make sure to go for fitted styles to show off curves. Such jackets allow curves to be showcased but in a more flattering way, while being free of bulking bumps and lumps that can often occur with larger, stockier styles. Look for the following materials the next time you’re in the market for a new tailored jacket: leather, brocade, corduroy, plaids, velvet, luxe, tweed, and denim.

Whether you’re a business woman or like to have clothing prepared for all occasions, you’ll want to get a great black power suit. Classic black from top to bottom is practical, chic and timeless. Wool and other materials that allow for stretching are ideal and be sure to avoid fabrics that are too shiny or stiff. You’ll want movement and something that will fit your body type.

Another must-have item for your Fall wardrobe is a cashmere knit wrap. This piece of fabric is stylish and serves different purposes. You can carry it anywhere and can be worn with just about any outfit. You can even use it as a small makeshift blanket for when you’re cold. From a blouse and jeans to a cocktail dress, the cashmere knit wrap can complement just about any outfit you put together.

Soften Up

It’s a harsh world out there, as you know all too well. Beauty Junkie knows what this weather (combined with harsh detergents in many soaps and body washes) do to your skin. Here’s your solution for this chilly Thursday: WEN Lavender Body Cleansing Cream. This treat is the latest creation of celebrity hair stylist Chaz Dean whose products are also famous for their non-damaging ingredients—Charlize, Drew, and Halle are big fans. The cleanser is latherless and filled with marine extracts and botanicals that hold moisture in. All good things, n’est pas?
THE DETAILS: $32, www.chazdean.com

Festival Beauty - Charlize theron

Charlize Theron

Tools of the Trade:
Urgent Slimshine Lipstick
Brow Set
Blacktrack Fluidline
Zoomblack Zoom Lash mascara
Shroom Eye Shadow
Mineralize Skinfinish Natural powder


Get the Look:
Charlize is a classic Hollywood beauty and her makeup always manages to capture the essense of Old Hollywood glamour. "The key to this look are the gorgeous lips," says M·A·C senior artist Grace Lee. For the perfect pout, Grace recommends M·A·C's Urgent Slimshine Lipstick, a cross between a lipstick and a gloss, which delivers the perfect amount of colour every time without going over board.

Because the lips are the focal point, everything else on the face should be minimal and soft. "You want to create definition around the eye but not so much that it will fight the lips," says Grace. Line with a bit of Blaktrack Fluidline dipped into the lash line to define the eye without looking too eyeliner-ish. With a mostly bare face, perfect skin and expertly groomed brows are essential. "Stay on the matte side, but add subtle light on the cheekbones and under the eyebrows to create a flawless complexion." Try Shroom Eye Shadow for the perfect touch of sheen.

Beauty Dictionary: A to Z for Fall 2008 - "C"

C: Chocolate decadence
Estée Lauder Fall Collection
We want to eat Estée Lauder’s latest fall collection, nevermind wear it! With delicious chocolate hues of truffles and pralines mixed with caramel gold and sugared berry tones, this look is perfect for winter. “Each of the warm and cool shades is very wearable and can be used alone or blended together for a softly luminous yet natural look,” says Tara Cohen, executive director for Estée Lauder.

A New Classic

Back in 1999, Beauty Junkie fell for Tarte, its darling red-headed creator Maureen Kelly, the simple yet perfect formulations and chic purple packaging. Over the years many Tarte products have graced our makeup bag, but one has never left—the Cheek Stain, a cult classic. This magical stick gives the perfect hint of color sans any messy brushes. While the original Flush shade remains a must, each new addition is just as lovely. Try for yourselves and you’ll soon find yourself defining product loyalty. THE DETAILS: $28, www.tartecosmetics.com

Pony Up

Beauty Junkie must apologize to our fabulous male chicsters. Perhaps we haven’t been paying you quite enough attention these days, but we promise to bring you more grooming options over the next few months. Our first, Polo Modern Reserve, has finally just arrived at Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street. It’s leathery and crisp but it also comes in a chic leather box. Ralph certainly does ruggedly sexy best. There are only 3,500 available worldwide and they’re numbered, so if you were obsessed with the original (and really, who wasn’t) we suggest you get moving.
THE DETAILS: $200 (with leather box), $62.50 (fragrance), various department stores.

Beauty Dictionary: A to Z for Fall 2008 - "b"

B: Baby-doll eyes
Alberta Ferretti, circa Fall 2008
As seen at Alberta Ferretti, the swinging 60s are back with soft baby-doll eyes. This look is easy to achieve: sweep a layer of white eye-shadow from the lid, blending it in to the brow. Now add a subtle charcoal grey to the lids and use a black eye pencil (try M.A.C Eye Kohl in Smolder) to line the bottom lids before smattering your lashes with mascara.

Kaplan Converts

Chic Report is feeling very Zen today, and we’ll let you in on our secret: yesterday we experienced a luxurious facial by kaplanMD, and we’re converted! His product philosophy? 10-3-1: Ten active ingredients per product, to fight the three causes of aging–chronological, environmental, and hormonal–all to create one product. “We’re all about consolidation,” said Dr. Kaplan. “Whether it’s our phones, our computers…why have 10 different hard drives for 10 different programs?” Kaplan translated this philosphy to his skin care line, and has won scores of fans like Sienna Miller, Natalie Portman, Justin Timberlake, Gwyneth Paltrow…and Chic Report, bien sûr! kaplanMD products are available at kaplanMD.com.

Beauty Dictionary: A to Z for Fall 2008 - "A"

A: Artsy

Vimi's inspiration: Monet's Water Lillies painting
“This trend is about using the ‘art’ of make-up to create a mood,” says M.A.C senior make-up artist Vimi Joshi. “Inspired by Monet’s Water Lillies painting and Andy Warhol’s pop art, the face becomes a canvas for artistic effects,” she says. Bold and artistic, this look is all about the brush strokes being used to stipple, blend, wash and dust. Try dipping your brush in to M.A.C Paint Pots, for a colorful finish.

Today’s Beauty Look: Dramatic Lashes

The Look: 90210 star Jessica Stroup is anything but a drama queen. However, her lashes are another story. “I strategically placed long and medium individual lashes along her lashline, then swept four coats of mascara on top once the lash glue was dry,” says celebrity makeup artist Amy Nadine. “The result was head-turning luscious lashes!”

This look is perfect for all those holiday parties coming up in the next few months! But that is no surprise lashes have been around forever, but now they are back in action!

The Trick: Tacky isn’t always a bad thing! Before applying false lashes, draw a line of glue onto the back of your hand. Wait until it’s tacky (about 10 seconds), then dip the root of the fake lash in. Press the root knot into the base of your lashline and hold for five seconds to make it stick.

Festival Beauty -Rene Aellweger & Zooey Deschanel

Renee Zellweger

Tools of the Trade:
Strobe Cream moisturizer
Bare Canvas Paint eye shadow
Teddy Eye Kohl
Blacktrack Fluidline
Blossoming Blushcreme
Zoomblack Zoom Lash mascara
Beurre Cremestick Liner
Hug Me Lipstick


Get the Look:
Renee's red carpet look is always fresh and natural looking. The key is glowing skin with just the right amount of make-up to bring out her beautiful blue eyes and full lips. "Start by prepping the skin with Strobe Cream moisturizer to get Renee's healthy glow and blending a touch of the Crème Blush on the cheeks," says M·A·C senior artist Julie St-Laurent. Balance out any remaining blotchiness with MAC Studio Mist Foundation - its light texture is perfect for a natural finish.

For the eyes, blend Bare Canvas Paint eye shadow on the lid from lashes to brows. "Apply more product on the lid then under the brow to keep it looking natural," says Julie. "Then use Blacktrack Fluidline eyeliner to add fullness to the lashes and create Renee's signature sultry gaze." To bring out the eyes even more, Julie recommends using an eye pencil along the bottom lash line and gently blending for a softer effect. Finish with mascara for extra glamour. To complete the look, keep lips kissably soft and natural-looking with a pretty, nude shade.



Zooey Deschanel

Tools of the Trade:
Mineralize SkinFinish powder
Knight Divine Eye Shadow
Zoomblack Zoomlash Mascara
33 Lash


Get the Look:
Indie darling Zooey Deschanel's look is youthful, pretty and all about the eyes. To get her wide-eyed glamorous look, M·A·C Senior Artist Melissa Gibson, recommends starting with flawless skin by using Mineralize Skinfinish foundation all over the face. Next, use the shimmery shadow to softly rim the eye area. "The touch of frost will add a dreamy evening dimension," Melissa says. Next, take the eye to the next level with a generous helping of mascara or, for the ultimate in glamour, give your lashes a retro boost with mod-inspired false lashes. "Finish by keeping cheeks and lips soft and neutral," says Melissa. "That way when the paparazzi start taking pictures, all they'll notice is the sparkle in the eyes!"

Another Way to Rally

Beauty Junkie is giving you a SECOND post-election elixir of the day. Enter your aromatherapy fix! Just take a whiff of Bath & Body Works Energy Boost by dabbing it on your pulse points. The mandarin and lime notes can help get you moving again. So keep up that momentum, surely there’s bound to be more political discussions during happy hour tonight! THE DETAILS: $10, www.bathandbodyworks.com

Are You Getting A Good Deal?

As the economy slows, many savvy shoppers are cutting corners at their favorite department stores in favor of sales racks. In such financially lean times, it is no wonder everyone loves to brag about that “great deal” they got the other day while shopping.

According to Janet Wood, style expert and founder of Fashion Fit Formula, “a sale is a retail store’s way of flirting with you. They are saying to you, ‘come into the store and see the bargains!’ It is a very temping thing to do, especially when you are trying to supplement your wardrobe.”

Is It Really a Sale?
Many times the higher end stores bring in sale clothing that is not up to the quality that of their non-sale items. According to Janet, “they are loss-leaders. Clothing sold at almost no profit to attract buyers into the location where they will then see the high profit clothing.”

This is how it works: the sale garment isn’t as nice as their other merchandise but its cost while lower, isn’t that much lower. Just a few steps a way is a rack with obviously better quality clothing and while the price is higher, it’s not that much higher. The buyer rationalizes for just $30 to $40 more, I can get this out fit and it looks so much more expensive. That’s true, but you have just blown your clothing budget.

Are they still a bargain? Sometimes yes, but most often they are not.

• Check the quality of the fabric. Is the weave tight or loose?
• Look at the zipper; are there any puckers in the seams holding it in place?
  
• Does the bottom of the zipper area buckle?
• Also make sure to check any stress seams (areas where the clothing will have additional wear).
  

Where Can I Find a “True Bargain”?
According to Janet, true bargains can be found as the seasons change and unsold items are reduced in cost. Evaluate the items you may choose to purchase carefully.

• Is it a basic staple of your wardrobe?
  
• Do you have the necessary accessories to make this new blend of colors work?
  
• Is this color or style going to be “out” in a year?
  

Janet says, “unless your lifestyle revolves around dressing in evening clothing and going out frequently, only purchase dressy clothes when necessary. It’s important to think about cost per wearing. If you blow your budget on a “must have outfit” that you only wear once – it was very expensive indeed.” A far better choice would be to invest that money in an article of clothing that you will wear twenty times a season. Evening separates have made it possible to significantly reduce the cost of this look by adding a new top and wearing with evening pants or long skirt.

To battle the long-known dilemma of “it doesn’t fit quite right, but it’s on sale!” Janet invented the Fashion Fit Formula, which is a mathematical system based on 12 vertical measurements of a woman’s body. Once your personal measurements have been entered into the Fashion Fit Formula, you get a specific plan detailing how to tailor your existing wardrobe to be the most flattering on your unique body. Janet says that the Fashion Fit Formula helps women avoid “closet guilt” and can turn those sale items you never wear into your next great outfit.

For more information, please visit www.fashionfitformula.com.

Blush Episode Two: Wild Things

The resulting photo of Mo’s high fashion makeup look drew “ooohs” and “ahhhs” from her fellow competitors. PHOTO: Hannah Ross / Lifetime

The second episode of Blush opened with a fun and frenzied Max Challenge in which the competing makeup artists paired up to create a “high fashion,” full-body makeup look inspired by one of four wild animals the contestants found waiting for them in their studio.

Out of the four resulting makeup looks, the only one that fell flat was Rainell and Mo’s odd spider-monkey-inspired look that mentor and Max Challenge judge Charlie Green deemed “messy.”

Blush host Vanessa Marcil thought Mo and Rainell’s monkey-inspired makeup look was “more costumey than editorial.” PHOTO: Hannah Ross / Lifetime

As for the other contestants, Charlie revealed that she had some difficulty in choosing a winner. Charlie loved the feather lashes that Sharzad and Farrah incorporated into their Flamingo-inspired look as well as the vibrant colors on Myke and Maxi’s blue, green and yellow-faced model, whose look was inspired by a colorful parrot.

In the end, however, the fierce, graphic black liner and heavily glossed, blood-red lips of Nolan and Todd’s zebra-inspired makeup look earned the talented team a win.

Todd and Nolan’s winning “zebra” look. PHOTO: Hannah Ross / Lifetime

As a reward for winning the Max Challenge, Nolan and Todd received first pick of the models provided for the elimination challenge and the ability to assign the remaining models to the other artists.

The Elimination Challenge: High Fashion Photo Shoot
Illustrious photographer and stylist (and this week’s tough guest judge) Djak Azran laid out the requirements for the elimination challenge: The artists were to work with Djak on a couture photo shoot and create a look that embodied a “modern take on 1940’s makeup.”

Djak further added that he really likes the look of glossy lips…and he expected the makeup artists’ work to be flawless.

Living up to Charlie’s ominous warning that he could be tough, Djak visited each of the competitors as they worked on their makeup looks and gave his thoughts on their progress. While most of the artists took Djak’s critiques in stride, Maxi again demonstrated his knack for irritating judges.

When Djak approached Maxi to speak to him about his work, Maxi shooed him away and said that he didn’t have time to talk — an action that would later drive Maxi to fret over his own abilities while tearfully waving a cigarette in one hand and cooling himself with a handheld fan in the other.

The Winner
Despite Maxi’s melodrama, the judges acknowledged his talent and sent him to wait backstage with Mo, Nolan Todd, and Myke, whose makeup looks didn’t earn them a win, but did keep them safe for the week.

The judges had little trouble choosing the week’s winner. Earning ample praise from resident judges Joanna Schlip and Hal Rubenstein and a huge cocktail ring from Djak, Farah clinched the win by transforming her model into a blonde bombshell with perfect skin, smokey gray eyes and glossy nude lips.

Farah Carter’s winning “Forties-with-a-modern-twist” makeup look. PHOTO: Hannah Ross / Lifetime

The Bottom Two
After the judges tore apart Sharzad’s makeup look and described it as “drag queenish”, “a little trashy”, and “pornstar-old” (yowch), they turned their sites on Rainell.

Though Rainell took a risk and stood by her bold purple eye makeup look, Djak repeated a sentiment he expressed to her earlier in the show: He hated it. Joanna and Hal pointed out that makeup artists can’t always do what they want and need to be able to take direction. Djak felt that it was unacceptable that Rainell refused to change her makeup even after he had told her that he hated it.

When faced with choosing between “pornstar-old” and a MUA who can’t take direction, the judges’ final decision came down in favor of Sharzad, making Rainell’s purple eye her last look.

This week’s “Last Look” by Rainell Chivonne. PHOTO: Hannah Ross / Lifetime

Next week on Blush:
The remaining seven contestants get a chance to redeem their failure at achieving a Forties-inspired makeup look before taking on what may be their toughest challenge yet: bridal makeup.

So what do you think?
Did Rainell deserve to go home or were the judges too harsh on her? Should Myke have been eliminated for touching up his model even after the judges called “brushes down”? (Anyone else think it was weird that this issue wasn’t even brought up with the judges? Maybe we’ll hear more about it next week : )

On the Defense

Clinique's got your man covered

WHAT: Clinique Skin Supplies for Men

WHY: The company just rolled out its new medical line--but what about the boys? Clinique gives your man plenty of products to keep that face smooth post-shave, but now, there are new treatments in store: Age Defense Hydrator SPF 15 and Acne Solutions Emergency Gel Lotion. The first absorbs quickly without a greasy residue and works all day. Packed with all those scientific ingredients that are de rigeur in your creams (think peptides, vitamins, and extracts), it moisturizes while protecting the skin from future damage. And what guy doesn't have the occassional pimple? You know he won't apply concealer, so the only way to rid himself is a four-pronged battle plan: exfoliate, oil control, acne control, and anti-irritation. Just dab onto the imperfect area after cleansing and toning with the other products and he's done. It's all the benefits of a lady's beauty regime in half the time. What could be more manly than that?

PRICE: $11--$30

AVAILABLE: http://www.clinique.com

On a Roll

Smythson's brush case is just what our makeup bag is missing

WHAT: Smythson's make-up brush roll

WHY: Smythson's been charming the fashion set for years with those notebooks--front-row staples if ever they existed. Now, the brand is bringing organized luxury to beauty supplies. This gorgeous leather case comes with a full set of eight professional brushes and tweezers. Not a bad travel companion.

PRICE: $510

AVAILABLE: http://www.smythson.com

Personal Prêt

Rajesh Pratap Singh hits Paris runwaays with his subtle collection Rajesh Pratap Singh’s Spring Summer 2009 collection, unveiled in Paris, was a super-subtle affair with his signature micro-fine pleats, tucks, seams, impeccable finish and intimate detail. Each piece was like a mystery that unravelled only after a closer observation – superficially minimalist, but in reality, quite elaborate. SHAPES: Streamlined geometric, with angular cuts and overlaps – even in the Jodhpur style trousers. FABRICS: Organza, jersey and light-medium weight silks tell a sheer and opaque story. COLOURS: Coral, crimson, frosty gradually morphed into the signature white, grey, silver and black palette. ACCESSORIES: Almost minimalist mode - with transparent acrylic heels, some chunky acrylic jewellery and the occasional slim belt.

Today’s Beauty Look: Modern Pompadours

The Look: “I immediately think of Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffanys when I see a pompadour,” says Jessica Rizzo, hairstylist at Paul Labrecque salon in N.Y.C., who suggests keeping the look textured and modern like Hilary Duff’s. To flatter a heart-shaped or square face, pin the raised section close to your forehead. “It offsets a horizontal face shape,” she says. Also rounded faces work well with this hair because it elongates their face to appear slimmer!

The Trick: Prep damp hair with volumizing spray, then place Velcro rollers going back along the mohawk part of your head. Remove rollers, tease along the roots and set into place with bobby pins. Finish by stroking shea-butter pomade along the top to eliminate flyaways and frizz. “When you brush over a teased section, you lose a little texture. This makes it modern. It’s a really nice way to make it look shiny and sleek without being overly perfect.”

Source: Instyle

Vimi Joshi Tells us How to Get the Bollywood Look

Bollywood is all about drama and color and the vibrant make-up looks never fail to dazzle and amaze. If you love the flawless beauty of Bollywood’s leading actresses, why not bring a touch of Bollywood glamour to your makeup regimen? To help translate the vibrant Bollywood face to everyday, we’ve enlisted Vimi Joshi, Senior Makeup Artist for M.A.C in India to give us some insider tips on how to get the look without going overboard.



“This look takes Bollywood Blue to the extreme,” says Joshi. The heart of any Bollywood look is in the eyes and this is no exception. The drama here comes from the moody blue eyes highlighted with sparkly gold shadow. As is often the case, the makeup is directly inspired by the clothing and jewelery. The key to translating this look to the real world is to simplify.


Face
Bollywood skin is flawless so start with a good foundation/tinted moisturizer (M.A.C Select Tint). “For this look create a beautiful bronze skin tone (M.A.C Powder Bronzer) and define cheekbones with a warm peachy blush (M.A.C Melba Powder Blush),” says Joshi.


Eyes
The best way to approach this look is to think of it as a smokey eye using blue instead of black or grey. Remember, it can be easy to get carried away so build the color gradually—a little goes a long way and you don’t need a lot of shadow to capture the essence of this look. Give your eyes a little extra glimmer with a touch of gold shadow dotted on the inside corners of the eyes.
Vimi's Recs: M.A.C Electric Eel Eye Shadow; M.A.C Plumage Eyeshadow; M.A.C Gorgeous Gold; M.A.C Auto De Blue Technakohl Liner


Lips
The lips here are intense and red but in real life, if you have a smokey blue eye, the last thing you want to do is create an equally strong lip. Go instead for a nude, peachy gloss (M.A.C Love Nectar Lustreglass) to create a lip that’s subtle but full.

The emphasis here is on the eyes (again!) but instead of being moody and smoldering, this look is young, fresh and sweet. Want to carry your Bollywood look into the spring season but aren’t sure how (or even if) it can be done? Vimi Joshi shows us how.



Face
Instead of glowing, bronzed skin, this look calls for porcelain perfection. Use a good foundation (M.A.C Studio Fix Fluid Foundation) and concealer (M.A.C Studio Finish Concealer) to cover up any blemishes and a pressed powder (M.A.C Select Sheer Pressed Powder) to eliminate shine. For the cheeks, the look is less sculpted sophistication, more blushing bride. Apply a pretty pink blush (M.A.C Pink Swoon Powder Blush) to the apples of the cheeks to help create a fresh, youthful face.


Eyes
The eyes here are lit up with the colors of Bollywood and heavily lined. “Bring this look into every day by using a green toned eyeliner (M.A.C Jade Way Technakohl Liner) to define the under eyes and a wash of pink eye shadow (M.A.C Pink Venus Eye Shadow) on the lids,” says Joshi. Accentuate the look using black gel liner (M.A.C Black Track Fluidline) along the lash line. Finish with a generous application of mascara (M.A.C Pro Lash Mascara).

Lips
This look is a celebration of youthfulness, spring and fresh-faced beauty. Capture the essence of spring renewal with the subtle shine of a pretty pink lip gloss (M.A.C Lust Tinted Lipglass). Add a dot of shimmer to the center of the lip to plump them up and capture the light.

Couture Clichés

The HDIL India Couture Week aimed to brighten up the
Mumbai monsoon with some razzle-dazzle. But Sohiny Das,
at times, wished for her shades



The perception of couture as trousseau in our country had
seeded apprehensions regarding the purpose of the HDIL India Couture Week, even before the event had commenced. But then, definitions may alter with location – this reasoning was enough to garner enthusiasm and leave cynical presumptions outside the venue entrance. Couture is fantasy, who needs reality?

Inside the tent, however, the Vibgyor fringed installations seemed to depict a celebratory continuation of the recently held Gay Pride Parade in Mumbai. The general observation to this ‘Rainbow in the rains’ décor was, ‘Why?’ Perhaps this was the intended preparation for the fantastic journey that was ready to unfurl with the somewhat jarring red carpet....

Six days of the country’s grandest fashion extravaganza left a mixed aftertaste. When eleven master couturiers of the country assemble for a presentation, one expects nothing short of magic. But that is what was lacking. Somewhere, hopes were raised, sighs escaped, gasps were drawn, and the palpitation almost ruptured – but then again, almost.

Textile Trends
Velvet and net predominantly juxtaposed throughout. Ritu Kumar, J J Valaya, Varun Bahl, Rohit Bal, Manish Malhotra, Tarun Tahiliani, Pallavi Jaikishan and Manav Gangwani featured both fabrics in generous doses, while Suneet Varma and Anamika Khanna used net effectively. Lurex peek-a-booed in many collections (saris, gowns) in the form of jerseys, georgettes, taffetas and satins. Cashmere, worsted wool (Asish Soni); silk jersey, tweed (Tarun Tahiliani); and cotton velvet (Ritu Kumar) provided some refreshing alternatives to the chiffon/ georgette/ tissue brigade. But of course, brocades and jacquards continued to hold their own as the traditional Indian regalia.

Print and Palette
Splashes of digital prints depicted human figures, jewellery (Kumar), shibori effects (Tahiliani), paisley panels (Valaya) and water-colour florals (Varma). The paisley emerged strong – miniature to giant, full-figured to size-zero, sometimes stylised to serpentine proportions. Art Nouveau floral motifs also domi–nated in bold and intricate versions.

White, cream and black featured prominently, with gold and silver next in line. Jewel tones like emerald and ruby, along with indigo and chocolate, were the darker favourites. Salmon pink, coral, flamingo red and turquoise added the bright accents, while onion, mocha and warm grey provided subtle touches. Though the timeless single-colour outfit theory was popular, a few designers like Kumar, Valaya, Bal, Malhotra and Bahl did play with imaginative and strikingly unconventional combinations.




Shape Shifters
The most noticeable was the variation in the lehenga shape;
after the prolonged reign of the A-line gherdaar, this allowed numerous liberties. While Valaya, Tahiliani and Kumar presented multi-panelled, streamlined A-line skirts, Bal, Khanna, Jaikishan and Bahl depicted volume, with underlayers or sheer overlayers – almost on the lines of the farthingale.





Malhotra retained fluidity, with thick hem bands; while Varma and Gangwani revamped the fishtail/mermaid, the latter stiffening the base to form a wide disc-like hem. Bal, Khanna and Valaya also displayed pleated underlayers as design features, and Khanna presented concave hemlines.

The straight, long jacket was the desi statement on androgyny – featuring prominently in men’s as well as women’s collections – as bandhgalas, or V-necked ventures. Classic equals boring is sometimes true, and it was déja-vu at every show, especially in menswear. While godet inserts made interesting menswear elements (Valaya, Soni), they, apart from the occasional dart/ tuck detail, were just about the only variation in men’s shapes.

Soni’s designs for women, however, stressed on shape. Structured fluidity prevailed in the geometric yet soft pleats and drapes of jackets, dresses, pegged skirts and jodhpur-palazzo hybrids. The U hem featured in Soni’s and Khanna’s collections. Khanna also presented the ‘pegged’ waist and hip, but in lighter fabrics and draped styles.

Embroidery Extravaganza
Designers revelled in the glory of India’s textile treasure trove. The intricacies of embroidery were arguably far superior to those at any Paris couture show. Demure to dazzling, layered to lacey, matte to metallic – the salutation to our craft was the point driven home, repeatedly.

The usual zardozi, aari, chikankari and bead-work prevailed in large quantities – painstakingly intricate, breathtakingly beautiful, and centuries old – featuring in almost all collections. Parsi gaara and ‘jacquard’ embroideries were another common element – whether to create a lace illusion (Varma, Jaikishan, Bal), or an Art Nouveau feel (almost all shows).

Tone-on-tone texturing through quilting (Malhotra), 3-D threadwork (Soni), fringing (Bal, Tahiliani, Soni), meshing (Soni, Khanna), smocking (Khanna) pleating and ruching (Khanna, Gangwani, Tahiliani) showed a more modern approach. Khanna interestingly placed bunches of antique safety-pins for a quirky, yet aesthetic take.

Metal, the Goddess of Indian embroidery, shone through her many incarnations. Badla, dabka, gota and zari transformed from vintage vixen (Kumar, Khanna, Bahl, Valaya, Malhotra) to sheen-ful seductress (Tahiliani, Bal) to dazzling diva (Gangwani, Varma, Jaikishan). The blast from bling countered with equal force, with crystals, mirrors, sequin-sheeting, kundan and stones encrusting the remaining available space, confirming suspicions that the Indian couture customer measures value of luxury on a weighing scale.

Par Excellence?
Yes, apprehensions were ultimately justified. This was largely a bridal extravaganza. A visual feast of regalia, grandeur and heritage – but not much more. Predictably, the fine line between opulence and ostentation was frequently blurred. While the bar of craft was raised extremely high in every show, there were too many overlapping elements. Due to the repetitive materials, techniques, fabrics and motifs, one could be forgiven for concluding that the same textile trend forecast journal was referred to by the Indian design fraternity. Despite the vast variations in our craft, the same few are recycled every season under the ‘support our tradition’ tag.

Couture here is also perceived as the synonym of volume, triggering irrepressible Victorian fantasies with a semi-Oriental take. The so-called ‘majestic’ offerings – where pomp replaced substance – were Eastern cousins of the more outlandish Elie Saab and Dior couture examples, with a bit of Issey Miyake thrown in. Often bordering on costume mish-mash, these pieces seemed better suited to theatre, or in a museum.

Of course couture cannot be complete without feathered headgear; therefore, plumage ruled the roost, and crests – no matter how integral to themes and concepts, it was a bird sanctuary! Serenading Shakespeare is another favourite couture cliché; so behold Venice, balconettes and enchanted forests! But the individual sets and creative choreography are a significant step in the right direction, and though there is always scope for improvement, they deserve special mention.

The bright side is that our designers realise that emulating European couture is not the key to fit Indian parameters – improvisation according to need is acceptable. Thus, each designer presented what they considered to be their forte. Trouble is, the forte was largely common ground. Therefore, it is recommended that we first understand the true definition of couture and stem the future from its roots. Couture essentially means hand finished, it is that simple. A baby-angora vest sans precious ornamentation can be on the same couture level as a fully beaded choli. A Chantilly lace scarf could be worth more than a zardozi sari. Luxury transcends occasion; therefore, it is personal. Only after this realisation, can we educate the market, and expect a better informed customer, who would be willing to extend beyond trousseau for couture.

Text by Sohiny Das

Make-up Trend: Bright, Shimmery Smoky Eyes

We're usually cautioned that less is more when it comes to bright. But Vidya Balan ruled the Filmfare's pages in royal blue smoky eyes.

With a bright hue, go for subtle smokey to make your eyes look brighter and more awake. Concentrate the color along the upper and lower lashlines and draw the shadow up slightly above the crease and out to the corner.

Rec: Victoria's Secret Silky Eyeshadow in Midnight Blue

Ash on Vogue India

Kudos to Vogue India…for yet another boring cover! While Aishwarya looks lovely (you can’t go wrong with that face), and her Dior gown is gorgeous, her hairstyle is boring and the expression on her face is insipid...however her makeup is flawless. Since it is a one-year anniversary issue, we have to revisit the archives and pull out the October 2007 cover. Do you prefer the inaugural 2007 cover or the current one?


Update (9/26):

More pictures of Ash from inside the magazine:




After Bipasha Basu, Priyanka Chopra, Deepika Podukone and Preity Zinta, beauty queen-turned-Bollywood actress Aishwarya Rai Bachchan joins the host of celebrities to appear on the cover of the fashion and lifestyle magazine Vogue India.

Sporting an au naturale look without any accessories in a new slim avatar, Aishwarya was photographed by ace lens man Farrokh Chothia for the October issue of the magazine, dubbed as the Glamour issue.

Source

That’s Amore

If you’ve never visited the AMOREPACIFIC Beauty Gallery and Spa in Soho, you’re truly missing out. It’s an oasis from the onslaught of all those European tourists taking over Prince and Mercer Streets. But even with no trips to lower Manhattan planned, you can still experience all the treasures this line has to offer. Beauty Junkie’s current must-have is the Time Response Skin Renewal Foundation with its blend of seven different parts from the green tea plant, collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Think smooth, glowing, flawless skin–there’s nothing better to start off your day. THE DETAILS: $90, www.neimanmarcus.com

Trend Forecast

Show off this season’s popular trends with beautiful, bright dresses and contemporary, structured clothing

ARCHITECTURAL FASHION Sighted in countless collections, architectural fashion is indisputably a key look for winter. There is a great emphasis on well-cut and sculptured garments. Paying great attention to the finer details, this trend highlights structured collars, cool cuffs, defined zippers, padded shoulders, moulded silhouettes, geometric tailoring and distinct volume. Avant-garde and bold in its design, some great looks came right off the runway from Balenciaga, Givenchy, Anuj Sharma and Rakesh Agarvwal. Often seen in muted colours, compliment this look with modern accessories in contrasting hues to achieve the perfect style statement.

COLOURFUL LITTLE DRESSES Unfussy, elegant and fluid, long and lean silhouettes are all the rage for this fall. Wear this trend with ease and simplicity through structured suits, chic jumpsuits, pencil skirts, wide leg trousers, long cardigans, and flowing maxi dresses. This trend can also be achieved with cool accessories like skinny scarves, streamlined clutches, high boots or some statement stilettos. From Rakesh Agarvwal and Anand Kabra to Marc Jacobs and Christian Dior, this extremely wearable and flattering look has been seen on the runway in a number of different variations and styles.

Amir Slama Walks On Water!

© Getty Images

The models at Slama’s Rosa Chá show in Rio on Friday were wearing shoes, but there was really no need. They walked on an inset runway filled with an inch of water–not nearly enough to swim in, but enough to make a splash. (Sorry, we couldn’t resist.)

Mickey Contractor's Step-by-Step Smoky Eye Tutorial

Face

Mickey stresses on moisturizing the skin lavishly with M.A.C Studio Moisture Fix. “Start with lots, you can remove the excess with tissue later,” he says. Go easy on the oily parts of the face. Apply more around the jaw to prevent blotchy make-up. Let it soak in, it makes blending easier. Dot the T-zone with M.A.C Select Cover-Up and then blend all over. Then mattify it down with M.A.C Select Sheer/Loose Powder. The concealer from the T-zone spreads evenly as base to the rest of the face at this stage. It is best to blend the powder with a brush with light, even strokes; excess powder can be buffed away. Use the powder that is the same color as your foundation. Don’t forget the neck. If needed, use more powder on the neck to bring an even tone. To compliment the smoky eyes mix M.A.C Gingerly Powder Blush and M.A.C Mocha Powder Blush and brush it on the cheeks, finish lightly on your chin and forehead as well. Also touch it over your hairline to get rid of any residual powder. You don’t need 20 colors, buy four or five like peach, pink and brown, mix and match from there. Cream blush is best dabbed with fingers, don’t forget to matte it out with some powder.

Eyes

On the eyelids, Mickey uses M.A.C Creme Colour Base in Shell and then brushes some powder over it to bring it to the same texture as the rest of the face. He then uses M.A.C Blacktrack Fluidline, and smudges it a bit. He then applies M.A.C Folie Eye Shadow, a brown matte, and blends well, leaving no sharp lines. He then outlines the eye (top and bottom lid) from the inside with M.A.C Blacktrack Fluidline for a black kohl effect. M.A.C Folie Eye Shadow is again applied with M.A.C 219 Pencil Brush under the lower eyelids to elongate the eyes. He then takes M.A.C Carbon Eye Shadow on a slant brush and blends over M.A.C Folie Eye Shadow on the lower lash line. Curl your lashes and apply a mixture of M.A.C Fibre Rich Mascara and M.A.C Plush Lash Mascara for a false eyelash effect. Then use M.A.C Brown Down Eye Shadow with the 266 Small Angle Brush and go over the eyebrows. A second coat of mascara and this finishes the smoky eyes. The Creme Colour Base acts as an eye shadow base. The shadow won't move and neither will it crease. If make-up smudges, clean it up with a wet Q-tip. An eyelash curler is essential. “Actresses always carry one in their bag!” Hold your lashes in an eyelash curler. Count till 20.

Lips

Use M.A.C Spice Lip Pencil to outline and fill in the lips with M.A.C Viva Glam 5 Lipstick, and top it off with M.A.C Viva Glam 5 Lipglass. Don’t sharpen the lip liner too much. Always round the tip off. Dual tone lips need to be filled with lip liner. Filled-in lips makes the lip color stay on long.

Tips and Trends

• Play down lips with smoky eyes.
• Stained lips are the ‘it’ look of the moment.
• Puffy eyes can’t be covered with make-up. Just hold your chin up to make sure it doesn’t show!
• Keep your make-up fresh for long by avoiding the sun. M.A.C Fix + is water for the skin, it makes the skin look instantly fresh.
• Treat problematic skin. Make-up is not the remedy.
• Since it is not possible for any brand to make 600 shades of foundation, buy the shades closest to your skin tone and mix. Do a patch test around the jaw line and step out in natural light before you decide to buy.
• M.A.C Studio Fix is the best make-up for ladies on the go.
• There are no make-up rules. Make your own trends!
• Blending is super important. The trick is not to show where it begins and ends.
• Invest in four or five good brushes. They will last a lifetime. Mickey adds, "Now is the time to get those M.A.C Holiday Brush Sets! It's a great way to start collecting brushes"
• Natural light is the best for applying make-up. At night, yellow lights work, tube lights don’t.

Oh Suzy, Our Suzy!

And we’re not talking Menkes; there’s a new Suzy in town. Last night, Suzy Biszantz (CEO of La Perla North America) hosted a shopping event benefiting Gilda’s Club at the store’s flagship on Madison Avenue. Granted, Chic cannot refuse an invite from its favorite lingerie line, so we trotted uptown pre-Apollo Circle to encounter a slew of lovelies like Fabiola Beracasa and Olivia Chantecaille shopping for charity. “This is my first time wearing leopard,” said Biszantz. But what we really want to know: What’s on sale, lovely? “Everything is 25-40% off,” Biszantz continued, before heading off into the night. To dine at her usual haunt le Bilbouquet, perhaps? Who needs food when there’s such a wealth of lingerie and champagne? The event may be over, but the sales continue. Time to dust off the old AmEx, dears.

Editor's Choice, Party Adventures - Ashley Baker -

Khushi Loves: Hunter Dixon

We’ve found it impossible not to smile when looking at this hot pink blouse/super-flared skirt combo. Hunter Dixon is at once retro and modern, chic but still playful. Co-founded by Hunter Lingle and Jennifer Dixon about two years ago, the line is a collection of wearable but quirky pieces that are super-girly and pretty without being saccharine. Ready, set, shop: Hunter-Dixon is available in New York at Otte, Cantaloup, and Bird. Not in the city? Pas de problème! Check www.hunterdixon.com for country-wide store locations and their online shops.

Festival Beauty - Keira Knightley & Anne Hathaway

Keira Knightley Tools of the Trade: Studio Fix Fluid foundation Mineralize SkinFinish powder Blacktrack Fluidline Teddy Eye Kohl Peaches Powder Blush Satin Taupe Eye Shadow Zoomblack Zoom Lash mascara Stripdown Lip Pencil C-Thru Tinted Lipglass Lingering Eye Brows Get the Look: Keira Knightly's look is smoky, sexy and glamorous. “It's all in the eyes - piercing and sexy,” says M·A·C Senior Artist Caitlin Callahan. “It's not for every day but it's absolutely stunning on the red carpet!” The key to this look is creating a beautiful, dramatic eye. “Use a neutral grey/brown shadow to rim the entire eye and create a mysterious, smoky look,” says Caitlin. Next define the eye using a black liner right against the lashes and add drama by packing on the mascara. Let your peepers steal the show and keep cheeks and lips soft and understated. “Use a soft peach-toned blush to shade the cheekbones and add a dab on the apples of the cheeks, then line lips and fill them in with a warm brown pencil.” For a hint of shine and fullness, add a touch of soft gloss just to the center of the lip. Anne Hathaway Tools of the Trade: Mineralize SkinFinish powder Greensmoke Eye Shadow (eyelid) Kid Eye Shadow (crease) Pearl Cream Colour Base Phone Number Eye Kohl pencil Zoomblack Zoom Lash mascara Lingering Eye Brows Lilicent Blushcreme Viva Glam V Lipstick Revealing Tinted Lipglass Get the Look: “Anne's look is the epitome of modern red carpet beauty,” says M·A·C senior artist Jane McKay. The classic smoky eye is updated here with a touch of frosted sheen, playing up the metallic elements in her dress. Don't be afraid to have fun with the latest makeup trends like metallics, nudes and berry tones, but remember, a little goes a long way. According to Jane, the secret to Anne's look is luminescent skin and a shimmery smoky eye paired with a neutral lip. Use grey or even blue or green shadow on the lid to create a cool smoky look and sweep a lighter colour like Kid Eye Shadow in the crease to add brightness. Create definition by lining all around the eye and using plenty of mascara. Highlight just under the brows with a pearlescent cream shadow to catch the light. For the face and lips, all you need is the barest hint of pink blush and a pearly pink lip colour and you'll be red carpet ready in understated metallics in no time.