Is The Night Time The Right Time?

It seems like there are a lot of overnight treatment products hitting the market these days. Are there in fact certain ingredients that your skin benefits from nocturnally more than during the day?

During rest, your skin has a chance to repair itself perhaps better than during the day, so product manufacturers tend to put their most concentrated skincare ingredients into overnight skincare preparations. However, there are also ingredients, for instance retinol, that break down in daylight, so it is imperative that these ingredients in particular go into a nighttime preparation. But remember, whatever little bit of help modern skincare can give you for skin recovery overnight can be instantly nullified by only a few minutes of sunshine. While UVB (tanning) rays are present mostly in the summer, the real enemy of good skin, UVA rays—which can cause deep dermal collagen damage that translates into wrinkles, loss of elasticity, enlarged pores, and discoloration—are with us all year. You need to wear a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB-based sunscreen every day because even a small amount of unprotected exposure to sunlight can undo all the work that you did overnight. If the chalky white, greasy, shiny, and heavy formulas on the market today deter you from wearing a broad-spectrum product every day, try my SPF 30 Defense Day Cream. It goes on both matte and dewy and is tinted so it actually looks like well-blended makeup on your skin.

Adrienne Denese, M.D., Ph.D.

Twi Hard: Twilight Makeup Sees the Light

Good Lord, it’s true: An entirely new makeup company has been created based on the Twilight saga.

Twilight Beauty, the newly created brand, has spawned two separate and distinct (well, distinct to any Twilight fan) lines of cosmetics. The first line, Luna Twilight, will be the lighter, soft collection. It will contain a First Light Body and Face Glow, and Gleam Metallic Mascara that will no doubt have your lashes twinkling like vampire Edward’s exposed skin in the sunlight.

The second line, Volturi Twilight, is named after the evil-ish Italian vampire coven from the famous fiction novels. This collection boasts a Foreshadow Primer and Labrynth Shadows glitter dust. Sound dreamy? You’ll have to wait until September to sink your teeth into these goodies, when they hit Nordstrom and Dillard’s department stores nationwide.

Make-up masterclass: Update your look with the latest high-impact lipglosses

THE HUE FOR YOU

Apricots, pinks and corals are great for warming pale skin. I love my Air Kiss Lipgloss in Poser  and By Terry Gloss Delectation in Cherry Cherry.

Rose, berry and deep burgundy work well on medium skin. Fake Bake Lip Gloss in Undercover Babe, a dusky rose, and Chanel Lèvres Scintillantes in Cosmos , a warm berry, both make a sexy, flirty impact.

Deep plum, brown and red  look fabulous on dark skin. Rouge Dior Crème De Gloss in Plum Elixir and Lipstick Queen Big Bang Illusion Gloss in Energy, a bright cherry red, really make your pout pop.

Chanel Lèvres Scintillantes in Cosmos

Lipstick Queen Big Bang Illusion Gloss in Energy

By Terry Gloss Delectation in Cherry Cherry

GET IT ON

• I think sponge applicators work better than brushes, which load too much gloss on to your lips, making them look gloopy and artificial.
  
• Tone down any redness around your mouth with a dab of foundation – this will also create a more defined line between your lipgloss and your skin. Pat a small blob of foundation on to your lips as a base, to make the colour of your gloss really stand out.
  
• Define your cupid’s bow and just under the centre of your lower lip with a neutral pencil. This also helps to make your mouth look fuller. Try Mac Lip Pencil in Spice.
  
• Apply gloss to just the centres of your top and bottom lips, then rub them together to spread it evenly – an overly thick finish will look too done and can feather at the edges.

MY SECRET

Avoid glosses that are too dark as they can be ageing – especially harsh reds and dark chocolate browns. If your gloss tends to feather at the edges of your lips, choose a sheer, glossy lipstick instead. Try L’Oréal Color Riche Shine Gelée.

Your questions answered

Is it safe to tint your lashes at home or would a salon be better?

Tinted lashes are perfect for summer as you can to go mascara-free for weeks.

But with all beauty treatments which can be done at home, make sure you have plenty of time to read the instructions and follow them carefully.

You must remember to do a skin sensitivity test 48 hours before you start tinting.

Don't rush things, be patient and you can achieve close to salon standard results.

Are there any fast ways to get rid of a tattoo?

You can't make tattoos vanish easily or quickly and the process can be expensive, depending on the shape and colour.

Duolite QS is a new system by DEKA which removes tattoos and deep pigmentation efficiently and without scarring. Two laser pulses work together to remove unwanted pigment in the skin.

The procedure is non-invasive and tattoos of several different colours can be treated.

A course of tattoo removal may last from six to 15 treatments at 200-300 per treatment, depending on the colours of ink and size of tattoo. 

Is there a product my husband can use on thinning hair to protect his scalp from the sun?

LAB Series Skincare for Men Nutriplexx Hair and Scalp Protector SPF 8 is a unique product that not only styles and controls the hair, but helps protect the scalp from sun damage with UVB sunscreen 8.

For protection throughout the day, men can simply work into damp hair and scalp, style as usual and go.

Do bust lifting and firming creams really work?

Bust enhancement creams don't promise to boost your cup size, they're not a miracle cure, but using a product such as Clarins Bust Beauty Extra-Lift Gel  or Marks & Spencer Beautiful Breast Serum faithfully every day will make the whole bust area feel softer, firmer and generally more toned.

Or try the Bootcamp for Boobs treatment - which they are calling 'A Boob Job in an hour'. It is a bust and upper body treatment that will boost pecs and triceps, dramatically increasing circulation to the whole bust area and releasing pressure points that affect posture.

The biggest bust must-have, though, is a good-fitting bra to support delicate muscles around the breast area.

Bootcamp treatments are available from The Berkeley Hotel Spa, Browns Hotel Spa in London and Esporta and Dove Spas nationwide.

How can you get smooth forearms?

It's not a good idea to ever shave forearms because you'll grow stubble within a day. Waxing is a preferable method because the results are longer lasting.

If you are waxing at home, wax strips are simplest and safest. It's best to wax your arms when there is a bit of growth.

Warm the strips between your hands and apply in the direction of hair growth, smooth on and rip off in the opposite direction to hair growth. With waxing, the faster you remove, the better the results.

Hold the area of skin to be waxed taut to minimise discomfort.

Try Parissa Wax Strips Legs & Body or Parissa Assorted Wax Strips.

Can I help my scars to heal faster following cosmetic eye surgery?

A friend who works in the beauty industry and has access to every product you can think of, recently had a blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery, involving the removal of excess skin and under-eye bags) and to speed up recovery, massaged A'kin organic rosehip oil into the area while she was recovering.

Within five weeks of using it, morning and night, the scars were barely visible. Even her surgeon was impressed with the results.

Australian company A'kin have one of the best rosehip oils in the world. Their best-selling Pure Radiance Rosehip Oil, is rapidly absorbed and can be directly applied to even fragile and sensitive skin.

It contains 80 per cent highly potent essential oils and vitamin E. It's best applied to cleansed skin - add 3-4 drops and gently massage in.

How often should I brush my hair to make it shiny?

New York-based hair stylist Paul Labrecque, who counts Renee Zellweger and Kim Cattrall among his clients, says: 'Regular brushing is an important part in the care of healthy, shiny hair, but the key is to use a proper brush.

'A 100 per cent boar bristle brush is the best, and least damaging. A nylon brush will pull and tear.

'Each stroke helps stimulate blood flow to the scalp and release your hair's natural sebum oils to condition and polish. But the golden rule is never to brush very wet hair, as this is when it's most fragile.'

Top stylist Charles Worthington says, 'Brushing your hair 100 strokes a night will cause breakage and irritate the scalp - it's best to keep your brushes as styling tools. For shiny hair I'd recommend an intensive conditioner once a week and leave it on for ten minutes so the treatment penetrates deep into the hair shaft. Then rinse with cold water to give a healthy shine.'

Dr. Denese: Forever Young Starts Now

This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.

I have heard that it is important to start treating the signs of aging early, even going as far as to start using Botox on would-be problem areas in your twenties. Are there certain products/less extreme treatments I should be focusing on regularly now that will be beneficial later?

The most critical time period of skincare for the rest of your life takes place in your twenties, when your most important job is to prevent future damage. As you grow older, your job becomes twofold: Continue to prevent future damage and try to undo already existing damage. Botox and LED Light Therapy would fall into the “undo damage” category, so as a woman of your age you do not need to turn to these treatments quite yet. Now, you should concentrate on earning your skin future, especially the skin around the eyes, by taking precautions against the sun 365 days a year, no excuses. Nearly everything that you will ultimately not like about your face comes from the sun—crow’s feet, wrinkles, enlarged pores, red capillaries around the nose and cheeks, dark discolorations, freckles, age spots, lines, wrinkles, and loss of tone. If you start using a broad spectrum UVA/UVB day cream around your eyes and all over the face, every morning of every day of the year—summer, winter, even if it rains—in your twenties, you can literally delay the onset of crow’s feet by more than a decade.


The other important goal of skincare at this age is to keep the oil glands in check to prevent breakouts. To this end, one of the most important things you can do is exfoliate properly to prevent sebaceous acid accumulation and clogged pores.

Adrienne Denese, M.D., Ph.D.,

Let’s talk about the bold colors you see in the magazines!

While leafing through any beauty magazine, it's easy to feel alienated from the avant-garde and experimental world of fashion makeup. Shocking hues and crazy colors pop from each page, holding your attention by sheer oddity alone.

The Hollywood-based company Napoleon Perdis currently promotes its new "Surreal World" collection with a model sporting rainbow eyelids in zebra stripes. A recent ad campaign for MAC Cosmetics' Style Warrior collection features a cover girl with fierce black and gold warrior streaks. (Maybe it is catering to the Pittsburgh market!)

Companies such as Make Up Forever, POP Beauty, Benefit, Smashbox, L'Oreal's HiP (High Intensity Pigments), Too Faced and Cuberry Cosmetics specialize in bold colors. But even the more established manufacturers such as Chanel, Estee Lauder and Lancome have created collections with vibrant hues.

After staring at such shrieking shades, a glance in the mirror might make your own classic color choices seem stodgy and drab. But then again, who could wear that bright stuff? The outrageous palettes on runway goddesses can't be possibly mimicked by us mere mortals. ... Or can they?

Amber Altany, a Pittsburgh-based freelance makeup artist who has worked for Teen People, Pittsburgh Magazine and Sports Illustrated, believes those daring looks can be softened to suit every style with the right tools and attitude.

"I'm not afraid to use color," she says. "I usually start with a little bit, and if it's not so bad then I add more. Makeup is so changeable. ... You have room to make mistakes."



While she enjoys scanning magazine ads and photo spreads for new trends to try on clients, Ms. Altany knows that blatantly bizarre color combinations shouldn't translate perfectly from the fashion realm to the real world. They can, however, serve as a springboard for new ideas.

"They're not usually expected to be worn as a carbon copy," she says. "They just show you different looks, and pieces of those looks can be adapted to the regular person."

Ms. Altany suggests taking note of colors that are repeatedly featured in magazines and then combining them with more standard shades.

For example, if bold blue is taking the spotlight, you can mix it with your normal eye shadow base or dab a bit on your eye corners to make a more subtle statement. If you see a lot of popping pink blush, blend it softly over bronzer to show that you're trendy and sensible at the same time.

"You're not copying those looks to the full extent, but you're using them to change up your everyday routine," she says.

Jennifer Palermo, who has worked for Estee Lauder and Clinique and owns JP Make Up Artist on Fifth Avenue, Downtown, agrees.

"[Crazy looks] are to grab attention and to explore makeup in general. It's just like fashion. You can see something and say, 'Wow, that's amazing ... but I would never wear it.' It's supposed to shake us out of the every day and remind us that we don't only have to stick to browns and neutrals."

For example, if you crave a safe color splash to spice up your daily look, Ms. Altany suggests that starting out with brighter eyeliner and mascara is an easy way to test the waters.

"You can use light or neutral blue mascara without looking too flashy," she says. "It's a great look for people with blue or green eyes, but it works really well with brown eyes, too."

She also recommends using purple or green eyeliner for a striking summer flair that's fun and flirty -- not freaky, like some of its catwalk counterparts. A lot of the best eyeliner jobs, she says, aren't created with eyeliner at all. You can often achieve a better look by dipping an angled brush into bold shadow and dabbing it along your top and/or bottom lash line. Pair it with mascara of the same color and you've created a look that's eye-popping and fresh.

Adding a little water to your brush helps the powder liner set, but be careful not to saturate it. A quick spritz of mineral water over your face will do the job just fine.

To prevent bold color from streaking down your cheeks in the summer heat, Ms. Palermo suggests starting with an eyelid primer to lock in the look and using MAC "paint pots" for shadow.

"They're cream shadows that dry to a powder finish, which keeps your makeup on," she says.

Color statements can be made during day or night, she adds, but you need to control the amount to make it work. You should "wear it with a light hand" at first and then intensify it when the sun sets.

Ms. Altany agrees that application techniques can spell the difference between a fresh and funky style and one that looks pulled from a 1970s or 1980s yearbook.

"Don't be too harsh," she warns. "Add little bits at a time, and invest in some good brushes. Unless you want to really capture the '80s, don't go too crazy with the neon."

Home hazards: Sales of DIY beauty products are soaring but could they leave you scarred - or worse?

DIY beauty: More people are putting themselves at risk by doing treatments at home

Yes, our finances may be stretched right now, but hands up all those who are happy to throw their hair removal or anti-ageing routine by the wayside? Yup, thought not.

Which goes some way to explaining the new research from Mintel which reveals that 10 per cent of women are now choosing at-home alternatives over beauty salon visits.

Of course, it's a fantastic immediate money saving hit. But unless you're careful, doing complex treatments at home could prove a dangerous false economy.

Many beauty professionals are reporting a new trend - correcting mistakes made by women who wrongly imagine they can effectively de-wrinkle their face or laser-remove hair in their own bathrooms.

In the past, we've all dyed our hair, removed leg hair and tinted our eyelashes at home using a variety of different techniques, but the new era of at-home technology includes ultrasound for smoothing your own cellulite, hair removal gadgets based around IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), laser treatments and countless chemical peels that are available online.

Cosmetic dermatologist Dr Mervyn Patterson, MD of cosmetic clinic Woodford Medical Aesthetics, first became aware of the at-home backlash in January this year.

'Two Asian girls came in with burns on their legs,' he says. 'They had bought an IPL machine which can be used to remove body hair. But these girls used it without realising it was inappropriate for their skin.'

Dr Patterson was able to treat the pair with soothing creams, but the correction and subsequent treatment at his clinic cost a few hundred pounds.

Since then, he has seen three further patients suffering the effects of IPL misuse.

'People assume that if products are deemed by the manufacturer to be safe to use at home, they will be very straightforward. But that's not always the case,' he warns.

'Most people are safe with home IPL devices, but some clients, especially those with tanned or dark skin, may find that problems develop between 12 and 24 hours after a treatment - when the top layer of skin can become scorched and blistered.'

Up to £900 million worth of damage was caused by home beauty treatments last year, including stains from dyes and burns from hairstyling gadgets

He suspects many women may have injured themselves and not sought help.

Dr Sean Lanigan, group medical director of sk:n clinics - which has 31 practices nationwide - is not surprised.

'There is a real risk of people coming to harm from these devices. Because they are low powered compared to the lasers we use in our clinics, this may give poor results and tempt people to use them outside their correct settings.'

Firms at the top end of the at home market obviously feel maligned by any disasters. Kevin Applebaum, chief executive of TRIA Beauty, the £665 laser hair removal device which has sold more than 50,000 products worldwide and has U.S. Food and Drug Administration approval, says that they get frustrated by such reports.

'At best, cheap gadgets don't work; at worst, they could cause damage to skin,' he says.

'Many companies are making grandiose claims for items which are just wasting your money.'

So what do you do if you're intent on saving money and beautifying yourself at home?

In short, always do a patch test and always, always do your research first.

Can science save our skin? Breakthroughs in genetics could bring a new breed of wrinkle creams that actually work

Could looking at the skin’s genetic blueprint unlock the secrets of anti-ageing?

The big beauty brands certainly think so. Using technology borrowed from the pharmaceutical industry, they believe they can identify the genes responsible for keeping skin young and healthy, and how these genes behave.

To understand just why this is so potentially powerful demands a small crash course in genetics.

Genuine skin care: Proctor & Gamble identify genes that become more and less active with age and then pick the choice ingredients for their beauty products

Although every cell of the human body contains the same genetic material, not every gene is active, or switched on, in every cell.

Advances in a science known as genomics have allowed researchers to identify which genes are active and which are inactive in each cell and to examine the differences between gene activity in younger skin and gene activity in older skin.

‘It’s less a question of genes being entirely switched off or switched on,’ explains Dr Jay Tiesman, a genomic scientist with Procter & Gamble. ‘It’s more like a dimmer switch - we’ve started to identify which genes get dimmer with age, and which get brighter.’

Initial research showed that the genes associated with production of fats dim with age, possibly explaining why older skin can be dryer, while those linked to inflammation appear to ‘get brighter’, meaning that older skin can be more prone to damage.

Once you work out which genes need to be worked on and which ingredients to use, you’re a step closer to skincare that can genuinely create younger-looking skin. For example, Procter & Gamble research showed that niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B, appeared to help ‘dim’ the genes associated with inflammation, and ‘brighten’ those linked to producing fats in the skin.

This ingredient is included in a range of antiageing products called Olay Professional Pro-X. It’s currently only available in the U.S., although it is set to be launched in the UK next year.

‘We’ve been working on this technology for more than ten years now,’ says Dr Tiesman. ‘And we’re at the stage where we can use it to direct the choice and combination of ingredients that we use in a product.’

Julie McManus is the senior scientific advisor for L’Oreal UK, whose brands include L’Oreal, Lancome and Garnier.

Genomics products: Lancome Genefique, left, and Olay Professional Pro-X

‘Each gene produces a protein that can be identified on the surface of the skin,’ she explains. ‘It’s like its signature, or barcode. Once we’ve identified the gene that we’re looking at, we can also identify its signature protein.

Our research has shown us how much of that protein should be present in young, healthy skin, and it’s then up to us to find which ingredient can help older skin to get closer to producing the same amount.’

It might all sound a bit abstract but, earlier this year, L’Oreal launched their first product developed using genomics, Lancome Genifique, to some pretty rave reviews.
‘We’ve managed to identify some of the genes responsible for skin quality,’ says Julie McManus.

‘As a result, we’ve been able to work out what ingredients we need in a cream to optimise the activity of these genes - and those have gone into Genifique.
‘Best of all, our protein analysis method shows that Genifique really is giving the people who use it a younger skin profile.’

Both scientists are keen to point out we are now at the tip of an iceberg.
‘Within the next few years. we’re hoping to identify the genes responsible for wrinkles, firmness and tone,’ says Julie McManus. ‘And within three to five years, that should translate into products on the shelf.’

However, they also stress the limitations. ‘Ageing is a complex process,’ says Dr Tiesman.

‘We’re only just beginning to understand it. And, while I think it’s unlikely that we will ever be able to make a 60-year-old look like a 20-year-old, it’s possible that we’ll be able to keep a 20-year-old looking 20 for a lot longer than we can now.’

Study: Tanning beds as deadly as arsenic

LONDON — International cancer experts have moved tanning beds and other sources of ultraviolet radiation into the top cancer risk category, deeming them as deadly as arsenic and mustard gas. For years, scientists have described tanning beds and ultraviolet radiation as "probable carcinogens."

A new analysis of about 20 studies concludes the risk of skin cancer jumps by 75 percent when people start using tanning beds before age 30. Experts also found that all types of ultraviolet radiation caused worrying mutations in mice, proof the radiation is carcinogenic. Previously, only one type of ultraviolet radiation was thought to be lethal.

The new classification means tanning beds and other sources of ultraviolet radiation are definite causes of cancer, alongside tobacco, the hepatitis B virus and chimney sweeping, among others.

The research was published online in the medical journal Lancet Oncology on Wednesday, by experts at the International Agency for Research on Cancer in Lyon, the cancer arm of the World Health Organization.

"People need to be reminded of the risks of sunbeds," said Vincent Cogliano, one of the cancer researchers. "We hope the prevailing culture will change so teens don't think they need to use sunbeds to get a tan."

Most lights used in tanning beds give off mainly ultraviolet radiation, which cause skin and eye cancer, according to the International Agency for Cancer Research.

The classification of tanning beds as carcinogenic was disputed by Kathy Banks, chief executive of The Sunbed Association, a European trade association of tanning bed makers and operators.

"The fact that is continuously ignored is that there is no proven link between the responsible use of sunbeds and skin cancer," Banks said in a statement. She said most users of tanning beds use them less than 20 times a year.

But as use of tanning beds has increased among people under 30, doctors have seen a parallel rise in the numbers of young people with skin cancer. In Britain, melanoma, the deadliest kind of skin cancer, is now the leading cancer diagnosed in women in their 20s. Normally, skin cancer rates are highest in people over 75.

Previous studies found younger people who regularly use tanning beds are eight times more likely to get melanoma than people who have never used them. In the past, WHO warned people younger than 18 to stay away from tanning beds.

Cogliano cautioned that ultravoilet radiation is not healthy, whether it comes from a tanning bed or from the sun. The American Cancer Society advises people to try bronzing or self-tanning creams instead of tanning beds.

Touch, Sniff, Buy

After yesterday’s Times pitted Ulta against Sephora, suggesting that the former offered a more accessible venue for a meeting of both prestige and mass product lines—plus a welcoming “Persian melon”-colored interior to contrast with Sephora’s exclusive black and white motif—we got to thinking. Which beauty megastore do we actually prefer? There are, of course, pros to both, the one-stop-shop convenience of Ulta and the well-edited niche offerings at Sephora, but a major factor that’s pushing us toward the latter is Scentsa. Launched at a few select locations in February, the Fragrance Finder is an innovative device that takes the guesswork out of picking a new scent or finding an old favorite, and will complete its nationwide rollout to every Sephora location by the end of the summer. The brainchild of Jan Moran, a fragrance expert and author of the Fabulous Fragrances book series, the custom program uses touch-screen technology that makes for easy navigation of its different search options. With a simple press of the finger, you can find detailed information on new olfactory arrivals, discover scents based on a beloved single note or fragrance family, view bottle designs, run videos, or read thousands of reviews on a potential purchase written by experts from around the world. It also has a feature that lets you search discontinued fragrances so you can familiarize yourself with similar offerings that are still in existence (a signature scent is forever). To find a Scentsa near you, call (877) SEPHORA.

Can Ulta Muss Up Sephora’s Makeup?

A NEW boyfriend has a way of putting into stark relief the pros and
cons of a predecessor. Until recently, Alessandra Salvatore, 27,
happily made a beeline to the nearest Sephora when she craved an $18 lip plumper or her favorite scent, Giorgio Armani’s Emporio She.

But because Sephora with its Parisian pedigree doesn’t sell
drugstore makeup, Ms. Salvatore required another stop to grab a $7.29
Maybelline Full N’ Soft mascara. That was before she moved from
Briarcliff Manor, N.Y., to Charlotte, N.C., and discovered Ulta,
a national chain of beauty stores that brings together designer
fragrances, drugstore staples, salon-only hair products, as well as a
growing selection of prestige cosmetics like Benefit and Smashbox.

“When
you walk in, it was really clean and easy on the eye,” said Ms.
Salvatore, an administrative assistant at a health care company.
Cavernous enough for 21,000 products and cut-and-color hair salons,
Ulta stores are often in strip malls, a convenience she appreciates.
“I like that you pull right up and boom there’s
Ulta,” she said.

Sephora may have pioneered the concept
of glitzy stores as playgrounds where women could dab and smear
prestige lipsticks and face creams. No longer was a salesclerk a
gatekeeper to the makeup, nor a cheerleader for the single brand that
paid her commission. Instead, roving experts helped as needed.

Now
Ulta, with 331 stores nationwide, is trying to go Sephora one better.
It offers inexpensive beauty staples found at the likes of Target,
along with easy access to prestige treats that used to be trapped
behind glass. There are also hair salons in each Ulta store and
stylists to help navigate the rows of professional hair products.

Lyn
P. Kirby, Ulta’s chief executive, likes to call the company a
“category killer,” as if she wants to tear down the walls
segregating L’Oréal in pharmacies from high-end skin care
in department stores and beauty chains.

Only recently has Ulta
wrangled enough prestige cosmetics to give a beauty powerhouse like
Sephora, with more than 230 freestanding stores in the United States, a
run for its clientele, said consumers and retail analysts.

“They
have a critical mass of prestige brands,” said Liz Dunn, an
analyst at Thomas Weisel Partners, adding: “Part of the off-mall
appeal is convenience. They’re trying to target the time-starved
woman who wants an easy shopping experience.” Critics say Ulta is
hardly within Sephora’s universe. Until Ulta stores offer beloved
standards like Clinique Dramatically Different lotion and more
adventurous niche makeup brands, they say, it cannot be considered
one-stop shopping.

Even in this rocky economy, Ulta, which used
to be a discount retailer with a schlocky look, has added sleek stores
at a clip. It opened 65 stores in 2008, including its first urban
locations, a four-floor showpiece in Chicago and a behemoth in Miami.

Although
luxury brands can be leery of being sold under the same roof as, say,
CoverGirl, Ulta is having some success luring them. Lorac, a
fresh-off-the-red-carpet cosmetics line created by the makeup artist
Carol Shaw, has been in Sephora, which got its start in Europe, since
there were few outposts in the United States. By contrast, Lorac
arrived at Ulta in 2008.

When Ulta came courting, David Hirsch, part of the senior management team at Lorac,
said they worried about “downmarketing” the brand. But he
soon grew convinced that women don’t enjoy their high-end
splurges any less just because Maybelline is sold a section over.
“It’s sort of like a Baskin-Robbins,” he said.
“There’s nonfat yogurt but there’s the good stuff,
too.”

For some, convenience is paramount. “When my
wife walked into Ulta for the first time, she thought, ‘I can
knock off a couple of things here,’ which you can’t do at
Sephora.”

It didn’t hurt that Sephora has also opened
140 shops within J. C. Penney stores, where Lorac is doing well. That
venture had expanded Lorac’s reach, not cannibalized existing
revenue, Mr. Hirsch said.

Many beauty shoppers are fickle when
it comes to store allegiance, said Karen Grant, the vice president for
beauty at NPD, a market research firm. The two chains go head to head
among 25- to 34-year-olds, 29 percent of whom shop at Ulta, 30 percent
at Sephora, according to NPD research. Meanwhile, Ulta has an edge with
women older than 44, who “tend to be more loyal,” Ms. Grant
said, because “Ulta rewards that loyalty” with savings.

After
landing a deal on a curling iron, Emily Veitia, a program assistant at
Florida International University, wrote a customer review on Yelp.com: “Ulta, you are Sephora’s nemesis!”

But
in a telephone interview, Ms. Veitia lamented that Ulta “felt a
little bit like a beauty supply store.” She would rather
“save up some money and go to Sephora” she said, because
“it’s more on top of the times.” Some of
Sephora’s niche brands include Living Proof No Frizz hair care,
Tarte cosmetics, Make Up For Ever and Josie Maran, according to Allison
Slater, the vice president of retail marketing. None of which Ulta
carries.

Ms. Kirby wouldn’t say which prestige cosmetic
lines she hopes to bring to Ulta, but she wrote in an e-mail message
that customers clamor for Nars and Bobbi Brown.

Ulta’s
personality is best described as “approachable and in
style,” Ms. Kirby said in an interview. “We are not about
intimidating. Sephora’s black and white isn’t
approachable.”

The peachy color of Ulta’s awnings
and bags is an expression of that sentiment. The company had considered
pink, but went with a hue that Ms. Kirby calls “Persian
melon” for its vibrancy and curbside pop.

Annie Vazquez,
a freelance journalist in Miami, likes that she can get two of her
Matrix Biolage color care shampoos for $20 at Ulta, whereas elsewhere
she has paid $25 a bottle. She is not yet ready to make the store her
one-stop beauty destination, not until it carries the Laura Mercier
tinted moisturizer she can’t go without.

For now, her
allegiances are divided. “Sephora, it’s not that it’s
pretentious or anything like that,” she said, “but Ulta is
more down to earth, and sometimes when you’re on the go, and we
all are, you just want to get there, get what you need, and go.”

12 Massage Styles to help you conquer tension

We all need to be kneaded. And in this time of economic stress, taking the time for self care is of utmost importance. Whether you choose to give your shoulders some shiatsu love or treat your feet to the pressure and release of reflexology, read through our list of hands-on bodywork techniques and figure out which one is for you. Cheaper--and faster--than a vacation, body work can quickly release your tension and leave you calm and refreshed. Indulge your muscles--they will be thankful!

Swedish Massage
 
During a Swedish massage, the masseuse uses oils and five kinds of strokes--sliding, kneading, tapping, friction, and vibration--to reduce joint stiffness, pain, improve circulation, and relax you deeply.

Deep Tissue Massage


Deep tissue massage focuses on realigning deeper tissues and connective fibers. The masseuse uses strokes that are slower and harder than those used in Swedish or Sports massages. Deep tissue massage can be effective in treating conditions such as chronically tense shoulders and neck, fibromyalgia, or postural problems.

Hot Stone Massage

Heated basalt stones are placed on the client, often along the spine or energy centers (chakras). The heat from the stones relaxes muscles and the weight applies pressure. The masseuse then rubs hot oiled stones over the client's legs, arms and torso to facilitate muscular release and relaxation.

Thai Massage

Thai Massage is usually performed on the floor, with the client wearing comfortable clothing. The masseuse uses deep massage while putting the client in a variety of passive yoga poses and stretches.

Reflexology



The practice of reflexology is based on the traditional Eastern view that the hands and feet contain many pressure points that correspond to various parts of the body. When pressed, these points release tension and blocked energy (qi).

Sports Massage



Sports massage is used as a pre-event rubdown or as post-event recovery to sooth the aches and pains caused by physical exertion. A restorative or rehabilitative sports massage during training also helps you train harder or nurse a sports injury back to health.

Ayurvedic Massage

Ayurveda, which translates as "Science of Life," is India's traditional medicine. Massage is an important component of Ayurveda, and there are many different types in the Ayurvedic tradition. Many use hot medicated oils and milks as well as bundles of herbs or oatmeals, which are rubbed over the body.

Medical Massage
Medical Massage is not one specific type of massage, but rather any massage directed at relieving a specific medical problem, such as tension headaches, back pain, or arthritis. But before you get a massage to alleviate medical problems, make sure the masseuse is certified and well-recommended!

Rolfing, Or Structural Integration


Rolfing, developed by Dr. Ida Rolf in the 1940's, is one of the most intense forms of body work (some clients find it quite painful). Rolfing uses a soft tissue manipulation technique that aims to restructure the body by separating and loosening muscle fibers to improve posture and respiration. Enthusiasts also find long-lasting stress relief because of the overall comfort and freedom it allows the body.

Acupressure

Acupressure releases tension and rewires the nervous system by applying pressure to specific points along the body's meridian system (channels of energy) with a hand or elbow (instead of needles like in acupuncture).


Shiatsu
Sometimes known as a finger pressure massage, Shiatsu is a Japanese technique in which the masseuse rhythmically kneads his fingers, thumbs, and palms on pressure points to encourage the flow of energy (qi). It is good for back pain, stress, headaches, or just to relax.

Watsu
In Watsu, the therapist cradles the client in a skin-temperature pool. Stretches and deeply relaxing movements are applied to put the client's body and mind at total ease. Watsu was developed by Harold Dull in the 1980's, when he experimented with using traditional Shiatsu massage techniques while in a pool.

Beauty school

We asked the experts how to master the tricky techniques behind the hottest hair and beauty trends

Perfect brows

EXPERT Anastasia Soare
TECHNIQUE Tweeze in the direction of hair growth, and don’t overdo it. Use an eyebrow comb to brush hairs up toward your temples, and carefully trim them with scissors. Fill in brows with a brow powder or pencil wherever needed.
SECRET A stencil can help eliminate the guesswork.

Product: Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder
Price: $29.00
Availability: At Sephora

Get Jason’s Lips

The clothes at Jason Wu’s resort collection were heaven, but Chic was equally enamored with that lip, that lip! After several probing inquiries, we acquired the formula for that perfect orange/coral/rouge hybrid. Just mix M.A.C’s Morange and Lady Danger shades of lipstick, and top them off with M.A.C’s tinted lip conditioner SPF 15. Now if we can only pre-order some of the collection…THE DETAILS: M.A.C lipstick, $14 each, and tinted lip conditioner SPF 15, $14.50, maccosmetics.com

Save Your Skin While You Sleep

By now you’ve likely heard about Estée Lauder’s new Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex, a huge launch for the brand that debuted earlier this month. (You may have even seen an ad or two for it on this site.) But if you haven’t, here’s a little refresher course: The nocturnal serum is an upgrade on its original formula released in 1982, designed to help repair skin during the restorative hours of sleep.
Boasting new technology that supports the natural synchronization of skin cells’ DNA repair and protection processes, as well as a patented complex that is capable of reversing the ill-effects of visible damage from smoke and pollution—all while you are in a state of semi-unconscious bliss—it’s apparently so efficacious, Estée Lauder is relying on a “once you try it, you’ll buy it” mentality. The company kicks off its largest sampling program to date this afternoon, when 250,000 ten-day samples will be doled out between 5 and 9 p.m. at all Estée Lauder department and specialty store counters nationwide (one per customer while supplies last).

Ingredients: Shitake

SHIITAKE /(Shee-Tak-Kee)/n./ 1. A specific type of mushroom or fungi, also called Lentinus edodes, that is native to Asia and possesses no roots, leaves, flowers, or seeds; /n./ 2. A symbol of longevity in China because of its immune-boosting properties, which have been used medicinally in the region for more than 6,000 years; /n./ 3. High in kojic acid, which can temporarily tighten skin and prevent the formation of too much pigment for a brighter, more even complexion, e.g., “a compulsory addition to any stir-fry, shiitake will also keep your skin firm and radiant.”

Try it: Orlane Paris Refining Arm Cream with shiitake extracts, $85, www.bloomingdales.com.

Ingredients: Rose Otto Oil

The Benchmark In Bath Luxury

ROSE OTTO OIL/(Roze Ot-to Oil) /n./ 1. Steam-distilled essential oil of rose petals picked at dawn, typically from the Bulgarian damask rose; /n./ 2. Hailed as one of the world’s most expensive essential oils, 30 flowers yield only one drop of its clear, yellowish liquid; /n./ 3. More potent than rose absolute and considered more therapeutic for its antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory capabilities, the oil can promote the healing of wounds, act as a natural cleanser for acne, relieve menstrual cramps and puffy eyes, and generally calm nerves, e.g., “Ease your mind and soothe your skin with Rose Otto Oil.”


Try it: REN Moroccan Rose Otto Sugar Body Polish, $60, www.spacenek.com.

Your request is being processed... NY No Longer Fashion Capital Of The World: New Survey

NO! NY has lost its spot as the Fashion Capital Of The World according to the trend-tracking group Global Language Monitor.

WNBC NY has some more information explaining city's demise:

What forced the shift? It's the recession, Fashionista!

"The parties were not as big," says Global Language Monitor president Paul Payak. "That was enough to knock New York off just a bit." Payak also noted that the financial downturn forced designers to stage presentations on the cheap, as opposed to the all-out glitzy fashion weeks that the city has seen in the past.

The Top Thirty Fashion Capitals, change from 2008 ranking, and commentary follow.

1. Milano (+3) - Not only overtakes New York but also Rome and Paris.

2. New York (-1) - Knocked out of Top Spot by Milano after a five-year run.

3. Paris (0) - No 1. in our hearts but No. 3 in the media.

4. Rome (-2) -- The Eternal City still reigns strong.

5. London (0) - London remains the laggard of the Fashion Elite.

6. Los Angeles (0) - Holding its own at No. 6.

7. Hong Kong (+4) - Leaps over Sydney and Tokyo to seize the lead in Asia/Pacific.

8. Sao Paulo (+25) - A remarkable rise, now dominating the Latin-American scene.

9. Sydney (-2) - Solidly in the Top 10 while Melbourne sinks.

10. Las Vegas (-2) - Intense media spotlight ensures a top ranking.

11. Dubai (+1) - An unlimited budget continually exceeded.

12. Tokyo (-2) - Loses a bit of luster as it slips out of the Top 10.

13. Miami (+13) - Driven by its dominance in swimwear.

14. Barcelona (+11) - Takes the Iberian spotlight.

15. Shanghai (-2) -- Now third in the China/Japan rivalry.

16. Mumbai (+6) - In neck-and-neck race for primacy on the Subcontinent.

17. New Delhi (+7) - Both Delhi and Mumbai break into Top 20.

18. Rio de Janeiro (+12) - Comes on strong but Sao Paulo is stronger.

19. Berlin (-10) - Hurt by weak showing in the 'haute' category.

20. Singapore (-6) - Fashion infrastructure strong, but hurt by the economy.

21. Madrid (-6) - Barcelona takes the Iberian crown.

22. Moscow (-6) - Remains strong as it drops out of the Top 20.

23. Santiago (-6) - Now third behind Sao Paulo and Rio in Latin America.

24. Buenos Aires (-4) - Strong in new interpretations of classic fashion.

25. Melbourne (-7) -- Slips out of Top 20 as Sydney strives ahead.

26. Stockholm (-7) - Tops in Scandinavia with Copenhagen No. 2.

27. Bangkok (+7) - Breaks into the top tier of Asian Fashion.

28. Krakow (-1) - Hold an increasingly intriguing niche in Middle Europe.

29. Prague (-1) - Strengthening its position as a fashion capitol.

30. Mexico City (Not Listed) - First time on the list.

Others in the ranking in order: Dallas, Toronto, Montreal, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Frankfurt

Johannesburg, Cape Town, Atlanta

Wunder bar! Swiss stumble on low-calorie, no-melt chocolate

I just had to share...

Most chocolate starts to melt at 30 degrees. Photograph: PA

We have been indulging in it in various forms for at least 3,000 years, arguing over its influence on everything from our sexual appetites to our waistlines.

But now scientists for the world's largest chocolatier believe they have stumbled on the holy grail of chocolate: a recipe that is both melt-resistant and low-calorie.

Vulcano is the internal code name for the new product by the Swiss chocolate manufacturer Barry Callebaut. Developed in a laboratory under top-secret conditions by an international team of food engineers, it not only has 90% fewer calories than the average chocolate product, it is also heat-resistant to temperatures of up to 55C (131F). Most chocolate starts to melt at 30 degrees.

The company aims to target calorie-conscious European and US markets as well as emerging markets in Asia and Africa where local temperatures have hindered the spread of chocolate.

"It's called Vulcano because it can be eaten when it's hot, and its airy and full of bubbles, like volcanic rock," said Gaby Tschofen, a spokeswoman for Barry Callebaut, which annually makes 1.1m tonnes of cocoa and chocolate-based products for customers around the world, including Cadburys and Nestlé.

The product, like so many good inventions, resulted from a mistake, this time by technicians in the company's lab who were working on another invention. "Suddenly we realised we'd produced a very special chocolate, of a crispy, light consistency, like an airy foam, and we thought let's see if we can develop this further," food engineer Simone Cantz told Swiss television.

Under current plans it could be in a shop near you within two years, meaning an end to finding a melted chocolatey mess in your pocket on a hot day or worrying about your waistline.

While chocolatiers have been trying to produce a lower-calorie chocolate for years, the obstacle has often been how to keep the rich and lingering taste and ensuring it is still a pleasure to eat.

The US manufacturer Hershey began experimenting with a melt-proof chocolate during the second world war. But the result was a very hard bar that was never produced commercially.

Tschofen said she could not give away Vulcano's recipe, but she had tried it. "It's nice and chocolatey, with a strong aroma, and crispy rather than creamy.

"It does melt in the mouth, but it is the enzymes in saliva rather than the heat of the tongue that causes it to dissolve."

Makeup artists have a few tricks to fool high-def

Television is getting another dose of reality — and another glimpse into celebrities’ trials and tribulations. But this isn’t another show, it’s high-definition television, which officially becomes the nation’s norm on June 12.

Digital TV aims to bring a clearer picture to viewers than analog, which, according to makeup artists, might be good for viewers but not necessarily for TV personalities. “HD is the too-much-information camera,” says MAC Cosmetics’ director of makeup artistry Gregory Arlt. “You have to treat the makeup like a tight, not-retouched beauty photograph.”

That means approaching makeup differently. Instead of covering up flaws, makeup artists now have to enhance what they’ve got. “You want to mimic real skin, just make it better,” says Los Angeles-based artist Marie DelPrete, who works on CBS’ “Rules of Engagement.”

The stars have to do their part, says Unique London, the makeup artist profiled in BET’s reality segments “Hair & Makeup.”
“We need revised products and makeup application. You have to tell your clients that they have to take care of their skin now. Makeup artists used to be magicians, and we no longer are.”



They still have some tricks, though:
- DelPrete starts off with a light exfolliant — even a washcloth — before she applies anything. It helps remove any dull skin, she says. Next comes an illuminator. “You know how a baby’s skin looks so light? That’s what you want.”

- Use a highlighter anywhere you see a recession: in nasal folds, frown lines, the eye socket. This creates an even canvas for concealer or foundation, DelPrete explains.

- Arlt, who counts Dita Von Teese and Michelle Trachtenberg as clients, says high-def cannot be approached with a heavy hand. While he prefers brushes to apply foundation and concealer, he goes over everything with a sponge before he’s done. “Blend until it bleeds! Blend is your friend! I say these things every day.” - Frosted cosmetics, with their light-colored sparkle, accentuate wrinkles, DelPrete says, but too-matte makeup looks dry. She looks for products with a satin finish. - Comb brow hairs and eyelashes — and this goes for everyone, not just TV stars, Arlt says. “The HD camera will pick up clumps, but so would someone sitting next to you.” - For color cosmetics, Arlt’s general rule is to err on the side of warm shades like bronze, peach and apricot. Pink, he says, can be too bright, especially if there’s a blue tint.